The Rolex Submariner: 70 Years on the Wrist

The Submariner has been in continuous production longer than almost any luxury watch in history. Seventy years of evolution in one model line — and every reference has its own character.

The early references (1953–1966)

The 6204, 6205, 6536, and 6538 — the “Big Crown” Submariners — are where the design language was set. 37mm cases, no crown guards, gilt dials, and a depth rating that started at 100m and worked its way down. These are collector pieces now, not daily wearers. Original examples in honest condition trade north of $40,000.

The 5513 era (1962–1989)

The 5513 is the longest-running Submariner reference and the most accessible vintage entry point. 40mm, no date, plexiglass crystal, and a 27-year production run that saw matte dials, gloss dials, MaxiDials, and meters-first vs feet-first variants. A clean 5513 with a real patina is the sweet spot of vintage Submariner ownership.

The transition (1988–2010)

The 14060, 16610, and 16800 — sapphire crystals, quickset date, and the move from tritium to luminova lume. These references are old enough to feel vintage on the wrist but modern enough to be worn hard without anxiety. The 14060M and 16610LV “Kermit” remain the best value in the modern Submariner range.

Current production

The 124060 (no date) and 126610 (date) — 41mm, ceramic bezels, the 3230 and 3235 calibers with 70-hour power reserves. Maximum reliability, maximum wrist presence, and a watch you can hand to your grandchildren. The current generation is what most buyers default to, and for good reason.

Which one to buy

If you want a watch you’ll wear every day for the next 30 years, buy current production. If you want a piece with a story and a tactile connection to mid-century industrial design, find a 5513 with honest wear. If you want both, the 16610 transitional references give you 40mm proportions, sapphire reliability, and the last of the older Submariner aesthetic before the Maxi case took over.

Our current Submariner inventory is here.